India Revisited - Naked Monks, Hot Paws and Cricket in the Alleys

Being in India for a day is all I need to remind me of how much I love the country.  It’s starts with the hospitality of the people and then floods out in exotic directions that assault the senses at every turn. It is definitely true that you leave a little bit of your heart everywhere you travel in the world. There’s no question that a little bit of my heart is in India. Some faces are familiar and the energy that courses through both city and countryside feels rich and ubiquitous.  

This trip has taken us from the urban capital, to the mystery that is east to Lucknow and now to Bangalore. My colleague isn’t quite as open-minded or even a hint of openhearted to the adventure of it all. It both makes me laugh and makes me sad. I feel so blessed that I can turn my face to the world to see everything with fairly fresh eyes.

Some of our highlights have been in seeing a monkey with quite possibly the largest balls I’ve ever laid eyes on, seeing his tiny counterpart the next town over, wandering through a banana farm and laughing that our travelers would be stumbling through this dirt within the week. I looked down wells, laughed at the chaos and tried not to get hangry on the days that certainly warranted it. This country runs life by the inches. Both in traffic and in survival. Seeing families washing in the streets, washing cows in the streets and the sheer number of humans you can fit on a scooter never ceases to capture my attention. I feel like a voyeur to another world. One that I will never truly understand, nor am I required to.

In case of emergency, grab hooter for announcements.

A trail through the eucalyptus.

Oh how does electricity work here?

The Residency: Lucknow

Mass Grave of 100+ - No Names Recorded

La Martiniere School - Lucknow

When the boys graduate, they carve their names in the steps by hand.

Chapel at the School

Bath time on the roadside in rain barrels.  Sobering and simple.

On the break day before work kicked back off, I decided to journey to a temple. Taking a deep breath as the Sikh doorman and I assessed the car that showed up for the journey, I was off on a 3 hour trip through city and countryside. Traffic dominates the city but we saw the GPO (General Post Office - Glorious and British in Nature), palaces, Wedding venues, houses of government and of course, all the strange that goes by the vehicle and every moment.

The temple was another story. Nestled way beyond the reach of the city, Kalamma, a Jain Temple, is on top of a hill with over 600 hand carved steps to the top. You will see hot tourists, hot Indians and the occasional nude monk on the journey. The best part is that this is all accomplished barefoot. I wore socks for some epidemiological phobia, but by the end they were scrapped for the sake of adventure. I must tell you that barefoot communion with all of India is an experience in itself!

My two new British companions and myself drew ourselves to the top and gazed up at the exceptionally large, nude statue that dominates the temple. This monolith is carved right from the granite. His skin was made colorful by the remains from the massive celebrations the week before where coconut oil, palm oil, pure milk, etc are poured from his head to run over his body. It was beautiful, simple and complex all in one moment. The trim monks blessed us and incense cut through the air. We walked around the other 24 dieties lurking in the temple and stepped quietly around those who came to pay homage. The views of the valley were glorious and a subtle attention to detail kept riveting us to the smallest nooks.

Going down was somewhat harder as the brunt of the work fell to the knees. In addition the stones became very hot on the bare feet. It has been 5 hours and the heat has not left them, but I fear taking off shoes will not provide much relief.  I find great delight in these adventure challenges.

Sorry I can't hear you over those loud socks.

600+ steps to temple.

Holy Reservoir

Women Warrior Goddess Guard

My New Friend Bryan

Scorched baby feet.

After my return to the hotel in Bangalore I decided to go for a walk. It is a favorite activity of mine that is often discouraged. Speaking with a female in the lobby, she encouraged me out and about. This was really the magic of the day. The assault of senses took full form with music, laughing, lingering stares, food cooking in porches, the multi colored temples, the taste of smoke in the air and constant awareness of vehicles of all sizes narrowly missing your elbows. I stumbled on kids playing cricket in the alley and men building a wedding wagon. I drew more stares that I returned, but it was worth walking the twists, turns and alleys of real life. Kids playing in the dirt. Adults drinking tea. Life going on as it should. 

I am so fortunate to have an evening walk that includes such a rich landscape. India is not buttoned up and will never achieve that. It is raw, colorful and divine in its own way. Thanks for having me in your neighborhoods and in your lands.