Riding the Rails - Great Allegheny Passage

25 September 2017

I think most children have fantasies about hitching rides on rail cars with their little red hankerchief bundles of supplies.  Facing the adventure of the unknown, casting off to the west in search of winds that have a new smell.  Ok, maybe this isn't something ALL kids dream about, but I pondered it seriously and even when as a hobo for Halloween one year.

So what does this have to do with bicycling?  There is a network of trails in the US that are composed of old railroad beds converted to paths for cycling, hiking, walking, running, etc.  These "rail to trail" conversions provide you with less than 3% grade in most places (don't underestimate this) and often a network of little towns providing services such as groceries, B&Bs or just a nice pavilion and informative sign.  This trip took me on the Great Allegheny Passage from Cumberland, MD to Pittsburgh, PA.   179.5 miles of crushed gravel, more pavement than I expected and a few new friends later, I found an appreciation for southwest Pennsylvania and taking adventure opportunities when they present themselves.

Night 1: B&Bs & Dirty Cyclists

I picked up a rental bike under a bridge in downtown Pittsburgh.  This face, pure happiness.

Golden Triangle bike rentals, highly recommended.

I took her for a test drive to the end of the Great Allegheny Passage (GAP).  Ironically, the entire trail is complete with the exception of the last 2 miles in Pittsburgh where you navigate city streets and sidewalks.  A little harrowing, but life is too short to not.  I may have yelled at one or two cars, but only because they scared the dickens out of me.  I took in a few sites and satisfied with my new companion for the next few days, headed to the B&B.  The best part of this experience was the free shuttle to downtown.  Yes, I know I had a bicycle, but I didn't want to tote my luggage around and hope no one helped themselves to my underpants while I was having a sandwich.  So on the shuttle we had about 7 passengers.  The normal conversation of why and where you are traveling came up and the lovely Canadians and I discussed my adventure at length.  They disembarked and shortly thereafter a bicycle must have cut off our shuttle driver.  She proceeded to expound on the horrors of cyclists for quite a while.  She finally heard the barely contained snickering of the remaining riders and realized (as I'm in a shirt with a bicycle on it) that I was indeed, a dirty cyclist.  We had a good laugh, I got off the bus and I never saw her again.  

Hey there good lookin'!

Day 1: Amtrak for Life, Don't Linger at the Station and 2% Grade

They day started with a ride through town at 4:30AM to the train station.  Every Amtrak station is different and downtown Pittsburgh was full of it's own surprises.  I finally sorted that I had to go upstairs, with my bike.  Thank goodness for elevators.  I'm tough, but not carrying fully loaded, steel frame bike up two flights of stairs tough.  So I made it upstairs and the station has been doing bike transport for a while now.  They get my bike sorted and Daniel, the amazing security train man, helps me to my car.  He looks around and says, "Come up here."  He gives me the entire upper half of the car to myself so I don't have to cram in with the "old people" downstairs.  I told him I might just take the chance to dance through the car.  I slept the whole trip.  When the train stopped, Daniel said, "The only dancing you did was in your dreams." True story.  So at this point I'm in love with Daniel's friendliness and charm in the face of this ride that I'm a little nervous about.  My bike disembarking was super efficient and I was the only passenger get off. Standing there by the track, Daniel hangs out of the car waving and says, "Keep your pace, or you will go all the way to Pittsburgh today!"  I begin my ride with his beautiful smile and wave to send me off.  

Excited/nervous face.

Bye Daniel!

I learned to not linger at the platform.  I was blessed by the crazy guy that does impressions in lieu of normal conversation.  Coupled with the smoking, I considered pushing him in front of a train, but it would be a while yet before another one came by.  So I headed to the post office and found out there were new post card stamps.  How exciting at the beginning of a great adventure!  I headed to the true beginning of the trail and finally headed towards the Eastern Divide.  2% grade isn't anything to write home about, but on a hot September day, wow....

First cave on the trail!

Right around this cave I was stopped by two ladies that were just astounded at my bravery in doing the trail alone.  It is always interesting to get a peek into the limitations people believe they have about themselves.  

This sculpture is your reward for making it up the hill into Frostburg.

By the time I made it to Frostburg, it was beyond time for lunch.  The .7 miles of ridiculous steep uphill was soul crushing in the heat.  I had a big hoagie at the first restaurant I saw and orange Fanta.  Amazing!  The rest of the afternoon's highlights were the climb to the Eastern Continental Divide (which was followed by an equally magically drop on the otherside - 10 miles of bliss), the Mason-Dixon Line, The Savage Tunnel, deer, wind farms, bridges, changing leaves and little towns in valleys.  

Wasp party!

Mason Dixon Line

Creepy Tunnel - Savage Tunnel

Survived the Tunnel!

Making friends at the Divide!  Whohoo!  All downhill from here.

I should have known that this sign would tell me a lot about Meyersdale.

I finished the day at a restaurant where they served the most amazing $5 pancake and bacon special all day.  I was feeling a little socially needy and held the attention of the restaurant with rousing jokes like, "Shop local, support your funeral home."  I was tired, but it was nice to make conversation.  

Day 2: Old Farts Club, Makin' Friends and Eclectic Book Collections

I'm not the rider that gets up super early to take the trail by storm and burn up the miles.  I wait for it to warm up a little, work my way down to my bike and eventually work my way to the trail.  Apparently the local "Old Farts Club" meets at my B&B every morning for coffee and to ponder all the things.  I stumble down sleepy eyed in my Salem Witch jersey (this becomes significant) and nod before heading over to snag some calories.  I can't help but overhear topics ranging from healthcare to donating money to Israel to the Bible.  I don't initiate conversation or eye contact, but am finally sucked in when I get up for another cup of tea.  "So young lady, have you learned anything this morning?"  I take a deep breath..."Well, I guess it's really important to keep an eye on personal health with the challenges facing the healthcare system."  There are a few smiles.  "So young lady, what are your thoughts on the Bible?"  Deeper breath, "It's really too big of a book to fit on my Kindle. Good day gentleman.  The trail waits for no woman."  Who are these people?!

The day immediately got more awesome on the trail.  The first thing out of town is the viaduct.  The views are great and it's just a really neat piece of history to convert to a bike trail.  Shortly afterwards, there was a tiny cemetery with a groundhog!  There were loads of riders and finally a few heading west.  

I had my first encounter with the Casselman River shortly thereafter.  Needless to say to say, the ride stopped and my feet went in the river! It was a welcome early treat and I spent a good while reading and filling out postcards.  It was hard to leave, but the trail ended up following the river to Confluence so I was not torn from my new love.  

First train spotted on the "Rail to Trail" ride.

The Pinkerton Tunnel had bridges on both sides.  This was pretty novel.  Things got really exciting with the flurry of wasps COVERING the second bridge.  It's not like you can ford the river with your bike.  I rode through them unscathed, but with a whole load of fear sweat to show for it.  I'm not sure what made them swarm, but when I talked with other riders later, they didn't experience it.  Maybe they were just pumped about the sun being out.  You know, sun worshiping wasps...

After a beautiful and fast day on the trail, I arrived to a wonderful B&B in Confluence.  The Riverside B&B is run by Anne Marie, but I made first acquaintance with Sheri (author and rider on retreat).  Anne Marie was a divine spirit and refreshed me with a new perspective on solitude.  I sat by the river with no shoes on and called home.  This was definitely my favorite stop for a rest.  

I slipped on the flip flops and walked to the local pizza joint.  I met Helen (later to be properly identified as Ellen) & Jessie for the first time as well as my B&B friends, Donald and Cary.  After my walk back, I met up with Sheri, Donald and Cary and we talked biking and life for at least and hour.  It was organic and wonderful after a long day on the bike.  The cool part is you don't need the wifi password because you have the warmth and fellowship of other riders!

The book selection in my bathroom made me laugh out loud: Erotic Space Romance, True Crime, Jewish Hymnal and Bible.  YES

There are things you don't notice until you are properly in bed.  This is the spider family I shared my accommodations with.  Glancing over at my underpants blowing in the window unit breeze, I briefly wondered if the flapping about might bother them, but promptly feel asleep without too much thought about it.  Look at all those baby spiders...

Day 3: Waterfalls, Cool Weather and Fiesta with Friends

I'd been looking forward to day 3.  Right in the middle of it I was going to see Ohiopyle and the big falls.  My morning started slow with breakfast with Sheri.  It's so nice to have a pleasant breakfast companion! Donald and Cary had threatened to take all the muffins if we slept late (they were 5AM riding types...) but fortunately they took pity on us and left a few for the stragglers.  I very reluctantly left the paradise of the B&B and began a chilly ride to Connelsville.  The pace was easy with a lot of reading and stopping to gaze at a river full of paddlers.  The falls were amazing as expected.  It's really hard to explain them, but intense would be a good start.  

Otters tell secrets to their friends.

One of these little guys nailed me right before lunch.  The resulting rash and swelling was commendable.  Trial by fire, seriously, I thought I was on fire for a second.

Lunch view.  I had an amazing packed lunch from town.  It was a real win to have a proper sandwich, chips and soda kind of lunch -- riverside!

Weird and wonderful industrial art on the way into Connelsville.

Hip hotel.  It crushed me to stay here instead of a B&B, but all the cool kids were doing it too (it was the cheapest option in town).

Ellen & Jessie

These wonderful women deserve their own paragraph.  Not only were they super, crazy positive, looked amazing (like they hadn't been on bikes all week), but they are lovely women that had had a wild ride from DC.  They spent the evening telling me about the adventures they had encountered.  I laughed and cringed with them and was so thankful for the dinner invite on their last night on the trail.  I am truly blessed to have met them and hope to see them again on the trail or at the bar!  Thank you Ellen and Jessie for the encouragement and laughs!  

Day 4: A Slow Pedal Day, Cemeteries and 2nd Floor Solitude

I only had 25 miles to go on day 4.  This isn't very far when you've been cranking 35+ mile days.  So dawdled a lot.  I finished a book and started another.  I poked around the old coke mines dug into the hillside along the trail.  The highlight of the day was meeting Rachel Sager and her sister at their mosaic shop on the trail.  The art was like nothing I've ever seen and they were a lovely break from the monotony of the very flat trail.  I hope to study with Rachel some day!

Art on the way out of town.

Beware the fuzzies!

I have mixed feelings about a mile by mile reminder of how far I've gone, but it was nice to see this one!  

Memorial for the mining disaster (one of many).

Where amazing mosaic artists make magic!

I rolled into West Newton fairly early and stopped at the big cemetery outside of town.  I quickly realized I'd have to come back to explore more.  I went on to meet Eddie the dog and got an upgrade of the whole second floor of an old house all to myself for the B&B night!  Upon returning to the cemetery, I was excited to see the scale without a bicycle to lug around.  The best moment came when I stepped in a hole that was completely hidden.  For a moment I was certain that I had been grabbed from below by a resident.  Startled the heck out of me.  Very funny.  It was a very relaxed day.  A big storm knocked down the dust and I slept like a rockstar. 

Yuengling 

And Pretzels

Day 5: Charging into Pittsburgh

This ride was meant to be a more chill vacation since the previous ride of this nature had been a bit of a death march made of speed and freezing morning temps.  I'd say the fact that I was craving more ride time at the end of the day and read three books made this a success.  I explored the towns I was staying in and had a lot of lazy moments in the sun.  The last day was no exception, but there was a lot more pavement.  By default, the lack of resistance feels like mega speed.  I had an early breakfast and then a nap (it was too cold to get motivated).  There were loads of clouds, groundhogs and steel industry history to usher me on my way.  I even hit the trail at Dead Man's Hollow.  The ruins of an old Terracotta Plant are there.  It is neat, but a little creepy.  Eventually the exit from the wilderness to greater Pittsburgh was undeniable.  Trail became pavement, recreational riders became the norm and I finally submitted when I saw Chic-Fil-A.  I have no regrets about the amount of chicken, fries and lemonade I consumed.  I checked out the REI and then pedaled on to the Western Terminus (again).  There is no sign to celebrate, but it sure feels nice to have knocked out a big trail.  I sat among all the tourists at the river and pondered my ride.  

Mysterious mine runoff!

Dangerous and beautiful fuzzy!

The second floor of the green house was all mine!

Good morning turkeys!

Old terracotta plant.

Last fungus of the trip!

Coal hauling trains in Pittsburgh.

Happy because I know I'm about to tear up some Chic-Fil-A.

Well, I guess I'm biased on why I like this...

Mission accomplished! 179.5 Miles of relaxation and smiles!

The ride was relaxing, but more than that, I met people.  The variety in personalities, roles and reasons for people being out and around the trail were a constant source of entertainment and joy.  Stopping to smell the roses is great, but people are really what made this rich.  Thank you to all the folks described above and those that weren't.  I loved meeting you all!

3 cheers for adventures and new friends!