Don't Judge a Country by Its Capital City

20 January 2017

I've made a terrible misstep.  For the last 3 years, I was convinced that I detested all of England and its country men and women based off a lengthy visit to London.  It turns out this is the equivalent of visitors to New York judging the whole of America by this solitary experience.  I am thrilled to have a new love for a beautiful countryside and at least one confirmed city of lovely citizens.

Leeds seems innocuous on the map.  Flanked by Manchester and York, it is the bustling industrial center of northern England.  Neglecting any down time in the city, I took the latest flight in possible and planned the earliest departure available.  In the short 20 hours of time outside of work (most of this committed to the unsuccessful pursuit of sleep in a different time zone), I went on walks about the little city and fully enjoyed it socially and as a temporary visitor.  Leeds is great.  You can not only procure any item you may require at a swath of shops, but if that doesn't suit you, the train will take you anywhere you can imagine.

It started with sheep.  We began our work about town to the west.  Looking into fields flanked with rock walls of an unknown vintage, I spotted herds of creatures not immediately identifiable.  I pondered and looked, pondered some more.  SHEEP!  Big, fluffy, black faced sheep!  This set the tone for the venture and it did not disappoint.  We ran our work tasks through and with an early sunset of 4:30, I set out for what I hoped would be a long exhausting walk to encourage maximum sleep.  A few pints were in the cards as well to help things along.

I knew I had a few hours before work in the morning to squeeze in a solid bike ride.  I hoped for rental opportunities, but came up short.  No worries, still nice to check in on the local bike shop.

Mill Hill Unitarian Chapel - A great place for a sit.  It is still a wonderment that I could causally grace the steps of a building over 350 years old.

"Home of Rational Dissent" - Sign Me Up

I was more tired and undernourished than I realized.  Over 24 hours of flying made Barburrito sound like an awesome choice.  I don't adore British fare, so it was acceptable.  The best part is they only stocked imports.  Quarter way around the world and Sam's Adams and Dos Equis were my options.  Minor fail...

This church also fell into the 350 year plus range.  What struck me more was the encroachment and juxtaposition of the modern shopping center.  Parishioners sat for their evening service while a rock throw away, bands of teenagers shopped in a modern shopping plaza. 

The Leeds Corn Exchange - Upscale Shopping in a Victorian Setting

Leeds has fantastic bicycling infrastructure.  

Local beverage finally acquired - Brewdog Dead Pony Ale 

(Cadbury egg for scale - just kidding, I ate it)

If you don't know what a bath bomb is, look it up.  After a brutal travel bonanza (4 flights) and work day, this was a win.  Swanky bathtub hardware only made it more magical.  

The next morning I favored a run (more of a modified walk) due to the absence of a gym.  I got up early, through no will of my own, and struck out for the post office (my favorite stop in any city) and to see things in the light of day.  Light is putting it mildly.  A steady cloud cover seems to dominate the city, but it does nothing to reduce its charm.  

Another example of the fluid nature of the architecture from old to new and on again. 

I adore abandoned little side streets like this. Who knows what's waiting down there!

Indoor market with anything from consumables to fresh fish to flowers.  It had a cobblestone floor and splendid glass roof.

One word - Haberdashery

This image is a reminder of an apparently ranging LGBT cultural niche in Leeds.  The previous evening I caught glimpses of it, but in the day I realized there was a full street devoted to gay bars, cross-dressing bars, bars where pretty openly questionable things were going on.  The fact that they were repainting the railway bridge with a rainbow made me smile.  How I would love to see this place going full out on a Saturday night.  3 Cheers for folks being to live openly.

On the way to work the previous day, we passed an astounding structure.  While I gaped and gestured out the window, my colleague steadily drove on.  Turns out this was the remains of Kirkstall Abbey.  Founded in 1152, it seems to be part of the landscape for locals.  I insisted we make a quick stop by the following day.  I could have spent hours exploring and slinking around the walls.  15 minutes was well spent.  I do not regret the mud on my freshly polished boots, not one speck of it.  

All suited up, boots covered in mud.  Happy camper.  

This is a reminder to take 15 minutes.  It's all we had, but it was worth the time.  Get out of bed.  Go see the things and talk to the locals.  It is highly unlikely you will be unsatisfied by putting in the time.  

I'll leave you with this, in all this grand adventure, sometimes the little things make me laugh way too much:

The thought of scandalous "loose" avocados made me fall into a quiet fit of giggles at an inopportune moment.  Perhaps some sleep would go a long way!  Cheers!