Biking the Katy Trail Across Missouri

260 Miles is a long way across Missouri.  I set out to do 155 and lost my mind somewhere in the planning.  It all started on a cold Saturday night by the fire at a friend's house.  A fellow kayaker was talking about biking the Katy Trail in Missouri.  It was mostly flat since it was railroad grade.  I let it pass, other distractions taking the majority of my attention.  By Monday I had ordered a map.  By Tuesday I had taken vacation days and started a training regimen that would last for the next two weeks.  I nearly stopped socializing outside of quality time with the bicycle.  Am I a long distance rider?  No, I enjoy the occasional 30 mile ride, maybe every other month.  Was I making choices for this adventure based on strong emotion and a need to check out from society?  Yes, yes indeed.  And that is how it all started.

How do you plan for a trip like this?  Crowd sourcing and the internet.  There was a book for sale, but books have weight and going fast and light seemed to be the name of the long distance game.  A few big decisions had to be made:

• Camp or B&Bs/hotels?  
• Distance and section?
• Shuttles?
• Solo or with a buddy?
• Outfitting and bike selection?
• Plan ahead or live on the edge like a vagabond?

Over two weeks the weather took a turn to be a bit colder.  After a 30 mile ride with weight, on hills, into the wind, I had a hot shower at a friend's house before heading home.  This convinced me of the value of warmth and comfort in the endeavor of trying something new rather than launching into the full austere experience all at once.  Lodging along the way it is. Distance started with the thought of doing 155 miles.  It worked with the train schedule and stops and seemed very achievable in 5 days.  As things went on I decided on doing St. Charles to Sedalia, approximately 189 miles and then the wheels came off while I was on the trail and well, I did the whole thing.  Shuttles were worked through by a very willing friend in the St. Louis area who picked me up from the train and then dropped me on the trail the next morning.  Starting with good morale was excellent.  In the end, I passed my car to punch out the last 40 miles on a whim and had to call a cab.  It all worked out.  The solo or buddy ride decision terrorized me.  I had a few willing and capable partners who would have been great company.  I have this great fear of terrorizing people on adventures that I've yet to test.  I prefer to stare into the unknown alone.  I regretted this decision along the way.  My potential companions were there in spirit, unbeknownst to them. I went with the hybrid bike and my boss / adventure badass peep loaned me his waterproof (Thank God) panniers.  I got a seat bag and top tube bag and I can't say enough about how much I loved the set up. Right until 5 days before departure I finally snapped and made a route plan and reservations at each stop.  I wanted to be wild and free, but that is not my way.  I like mitigating risk, establishing accountability and having a solid plan that allows me to succeed.  I didn't organize every water break, every book reading stop, but I did have somewhere guaranteed to sleep at a reasonable rate and daily goals that kept me going.  

So that's the long planning story.  I dove in for two weeks with long rides sometimes twice a day and spent most waking moments pondering logistics, potential hazards, packing lists and why the hell I was doing this.  Now on to the adventure.  

Monday, November 7, 2016 - Train Travel and Good Times

I went to work that morning before hustling to Sedalia, MO to catch a train.  You may not be aware, but Amtrak is alive and well and very affordable.  You can run routes from Chicago to New Orleans or Kansas City to LA.  I would be running the line from Sedalia to McKittrick, MO.  It's brilliant that $36 got me across the state with my bicycle.  Modern trains don't smell amazing, but they are spacious, fairly empty and the conductor still wears a cool hat.  I passed the time watching movies (free wifi) and getting nervous.  There is a certain psychology to leaving your car somewhere and knowing you must get back to it under your own power.  

Farewell car, may I see you in the future.

One is the loneliest number.  

Full train, just kidding, it was me and about 6 other people. 

I arrived late to a dear friend on the other end.  Lara was almost as excited as I was about the nostalgia of a pick up at a train station.  The next 12 hours held Dairy Queen, hilarious conversation with someone in their underwear, sitting on the back porch, playing with amazing dogs and a massive carb loaded Hardee's breakfast (which is my favorite before a big undertaking).  

T-bone - wonder dog.  Will chase a Kong to the end of his days. 

Tuesday, November 8, 2016 - Rain, Mud, Questioning My Choices

Hardee's was amazing, my gear was packed and every training day had led to just seeing what this trail was like.  It wasn't paved, but a fine gravel/chert that provided a bit more resistance than anticipated.  The sun was shining at 7AM and clouds and rain rolled in by 10.  I faked enthusiasm and bravery and Lara and I traveled to the trailhead.  The rain got harder and she walked me to the trail with a raised eyebrow and a promise to come pick me up if things were just too ridiculous.  

My pretend excited face and Lara's not pretend concerned face.

The first few hours on the trail were a bit of a weather and trail disaster.  Hard rain, mud covered trails and cold.  Was I disillusioned and doubting my choices?  Hell yes.  I made it to a bike shop in Defiance where I was greeting warmly and had a warm meal at a restaurant that featured a squirrel on a motorcycle.  I had no idea that the back of my rain jacket was covered in mud a foot wide.  The waitress was probably non-plussed by the pile of dried mud I left on my chair.... Wherever she is, I apologize, sincerely.  

Lewis and Clark and Lewis' Dog Seaman watching me go.  Good omen right?

Dark and stormy trail...

The only fungus along the way and the most positive part of the first day.

The waitress, again, I apologize.

The rain continued, but I stopped and read every Lewis and Clark information bulletin along the way.  For those of you that don't know, I adore the story and spirit of Lewis and Clark.  I took 6 hours of Lewis and Clark studies in college, hurray for Liberal Arts!  After the second pass on the trail by the County Ambulance 4x4, undoubtedly checking on sad and masochistic bicyclists, I decided to put my head down and keep pedaling.  Frankly, it was the only way to stay warm.  The sun came out late and washed over the fields.  I rolled into Marthasville with crazy eyes, a bit of a twitch and a lot of mud from up the trail.  This is when I realized I rented an entire turn of the century house.  A disastrous day was met with a homemade blueberry crumble (I shamelessly ate the whole thing), a hose to wash off the bike and bags, a laundry room to start over with mud covered gear and shoes and one restaurant that made the most amazing hot sandwich.  I snuggled down with popcorn, the blueberry crumble and a chick flick and tried not to feel like I was sleeping in a house that most definitely gave me the haunted geebees.  What a first day out.  Only 5 more to go!

MILES: 42.41 St. Charles to Marthasville

This is the "sun" coming out.

The Little House B&B.  Luxury and comfort after chaos.

Carnage

Happy to have not quit.

Mushrooms at the house.  Too cool!

Mushroom bonanza by an old stump.

Wednesday, November 9th, 2016 - Sun is Shining, Birds are Chirping and There are People!

With the exception of 3 people out for a day ride and the ambulance guys cruising around, Tuesday was a march in solitude.  At the first depot stop after Marthasville, there was a cluster of cyclists laughing about the poor weather, talking about where they had been and where they were going and generally enjoying the fellowship of the trail.  This is what I had imagined would happen, but it turned out this was the only day for it.  I met Warren and Diane who were bike camping the trail and had just completed a kayaking expedition down the Missouri river.  These were kindred adventure spirits.  2 Canadians who saw me go past their RV in the rain and tried to catch me to offer a cup of coffee.  Lovely people.  Then there were a pair on a team building outing from Miami.  Hard core team building!  It was wonderful  and the high 5 from the long distance bicycling guy carried me a long way that day.  Thank goodness for other adventurous humans.  The rest of the day had more book reading stops, lunch from my snack cache and pleasant if not consistent scenery.  The trail laces between farmland and the Missouri River.  I went into the town of Hermann across the river and grabbed a sandwich and custard at a little deli.  Besides being a super cute town, it allowed me to have a great realization.  It wasn't the flatness of the Katy that was challenging, it was the material of the trail.  It simply did not allow one to roll.  If you stopped pedaling, you very shortly afterwards stopped moving forward.  Pavement felt divine.  I hopped back on to the trail and journeyed to the Doll House B&B.  Melissa was welcoming.  She had popcorn, soothing essential oils to diffuse and a very fluffy blanket that settled me into an early evening nap.  Maybe this wasn't going to be so bad?

MILES: 32.98  Marthasville to Rhineland

Look at that positive attitude!

This is pretty much the whole trip...

Hermann - Biergartens and food options galore.

Does Loutre mean otter in French?  Well yes it does!

Home Sweet Home for the Night

November 10th, 2016 - Hitting my Stride, Making Peace with the Process and the Big City

There were two B&B guests to share breakfast with.  Joe and Paula were lovely people with normal lovely lives.  We chatted, they were convinced I was a CIA operative (seriously, I'm not sure why).  They had a lot of questions about why I felt compelled to do the trail alone and I hopped onto the trail and into 43 degrees of fresh and sunny weather.  The highlights of the day were a ground hog and a deer with the fluffiest white tail of all time.  His escape path down the trail wasn't creative, but it gave a great show.  The Lewis and Clark markers continued to bring joy.  The bridge crossings continued to intrigue and break up the monotony.  I saw the capital dome of Jefferson City and pedaled like there was no tomorrow.  Motivated to not be in an urban area after dark I had finally worked through the day at a pace that allowed more miles and less saddle time.  I pedaled into Jefferson City ready to be done with the day.  I knew there was a greek restaurant by my hotel and it was really the highlight of the day.  The best part of the day was being on the elevator at the hotel and when the doors opened on the 3rd floor, there were 4 huge black guys waiting to get on.  The smiles and confusion on their faces was fantastic.  They took pictures, we all laughed and down the hall I went.  Seriously, stuff white people do (taking bicycles in elevators).  At this point in the trip, I decided this was going to be hard, but was all in all good.

MILES:  42.96 Rhineland to Jefferson City

Fog rising off of the Missouri River across the farm fields.

A new feature - bluffs on the trail!

These gates keep cars off the trail, but psychologically, I was certain I would catch a handlebar coming through at some point.  Didn't happen, but I'm still scared.

Cold and victoriously continuing on, you bet!

Standing rock.  Geological wonder with marks from historic floods.

Lewis and Clark Trail Markers - LOVE THEM

Hummus, Gyro, Pita, more Pita, french fries and cheesecake.  Stress eating?

November 11, 2016 - The Most Beautiful Scenery of the Trip and the First Perfect Day

If all the days had been like this one, I may not have come back.  I got up early, ate all the carbohydrates available at breakfast and got on the trail.  I saw more bikes out and people walking their dogs.  A stranger and I watched a sand barge charge upstream on the Missouri.  The day had less farm and highway views and more river and bluffs.  This meant the temptation of pavement wasn't present.  I heard hawks screeching, had lunch by a spring bursting forth from the wall, stopped to read a lot, saw a cave (Lewis and Clark cave, of course) and made it to a pleasant town with a pleasant accommodation.  Staying in the School House Dormitory was a treat that provided a self-service bike shop with compressed air, tools and much needed lubricant for a chain that had been abused.  A walk about town and quick dinner satisfied a close to the day.  

MILES: 39.4 Jefferson City to Rocheport

Full steam ahead!  Sand barge coming through!

Best lunch spot of the trip.  Surrounded by puzzle grass and silence.

Cadillacs of the desert, meet boats of the Missouri River.

You know you are in a weird place when "Strenuous Climb" takes a trail totally off the radar.  I don't regret it!

Sweet mushroom!

That is the face of motivation!

Lewis and Clark Cave

Old Explosives Bunker

Missouri River sunset.

Dorm room luxury.

November 11, 2016 - Pondering the End, Lots of Day Users and a Mellow Ride

This was my second to last day.  I had determined I wanted to sleep in my own bed Sunday night.  I only had 25 miles to my destination so I strolled, read and generally took it easy.  The day started with the only train tunnel on the trail.  It was an engineering feat and a sure highlight.  Boonville was a lovely stop with all sorts of distractions if inclined.  I sat in the sun and tried to embrace the warm.  Turns out the run from Boonville to Pilot Grove was the 3% railroad grade.  After 3.5 days of flatness, it was a surprise, but no worry.  I kind of enjoyed a change in rhythm.  I arrived in Pilot Grove by 3:30PM, dropped the weight and took off for a 6 mile out and back ride to make up for the closed 12 miles of trail from Machens to St. Charles that I hadn't ridden at the beginning.  I felt like I was flying and came back to a kind man that had cleaned the dust off my bags, taken them to the Honeymoon Suite of the B&B and turned down the bed.  After a history lesson on the area and dinner suggestions, I went with a pizza and cupcakes and slept like a stone.  I had spent the day pondering whether to make the 60 mile push to Clinton or be satisfied with making it to my car or technically hitting 237 miles and being content with walking away.  The next day would show evidence of either willpower or neurosis.  

MILES: 38.15 Rocheport to Pilot Grove, + 12 mile out and back

Tunnel at Rocheport

Ceramic Tile Silo

Caboose on the Loose

Frequent view when pulling into a depot stop.

Old Roundhouse

Second Caboose on the Loose

I did not lick the sign.

Dinner of a performance athlete.

Moon rise over the fields.

November 12th, 2016 - The Last Day on the Trail, The Longest Day on the Trail

I had choices when I woke up to a cold morning.  My car was 25 miles away.  The technical end of the trail was 60 miles away.  I only had to ride 40 miles to end with 237 miles of Katy Trail accomplished.  I was strangely conflicted about the whole matter, but it all shook out.  I rode to my car at breakneck speed, dropped all weight beyond the emergency kit, bike tools, water and a few snacks.  At noon I didn't know where I was headed or how I was getting back to my car.  Then my spirit and soul took over and I was determined to finish the deal.  I didn't want to answer the question of "Did you do the whole trail?" with a qualified answer.  I wanted to look people straight on and say, "Yes, I did it all."  So I pushed past and at the high point of the trail, from an elevation standpoint, I called a cab and arranged for a 4:30PM pickup at the end.  It was settled.  I was going to Clinton.  I'd never ridden 60 miles in a day, much less 62.  The new prairie views and telegraph lines running along side were pleasant, but they were accompanied by winds out of the west with no break from the trees.  Dropping lower in gears, I wasn't sure if I was tired or actually going up a slight incline.  I yelled at the wind.  I yelled at myself and then it was over.  My taxi driver was there.  The western terminus was reached and I didn't have to get on a bike again the next day.  All the pain had been put away and replaced by emotion.  Emotions ranged from pride, euphoria, ecstasy, rage and determination.  I cried when I saw the Clinton sign and wept through the next .6 miles to the end.  It wasn't pain, but it was odd emotion that washed over like a breaking wave.  I've never felt so accomplished, so thankful to be done and so overwhelmed with it all.  I called my Dad to report the news, got in my taxi with my faithful bicycle and that was it.  The 5.5 day journey was so suddenly over and we watched the moon rise on the way back to the car.  

MILES: 62.14, Pilot Grove to Clinton

Last B&B for the trip.  Great host and great sleep.

The only remaining stop light on the railway.

One of my favorite views on the trail.

The view at the 20 mile stretch point.  I had gone 40 and the end was near.

Looked for the prairie chickens the signs had informed me about, but they were hiding.  I loved all the unfamiliar bird sounds. 

Old telegraph pole.

Feeling pumped right before the last adrenaline dump that would leave me a little short for the finish.

You can't see the tears, but they were there.  This mileage chart had been a big part of the last 3 weeks and I was finally to that number at the end.

A moonrise to finish it off.  

So what did we learn on this trip?  A few notes below:

• Leaves on a trail, while lovely, hide all sorts of things, horse poop, big rocks, pokey sticks.  Don't be sucked in by their loveliness.  
• If your bike is making a weird noise, a tiny stick may have jammed in an inconceivable place.  Investigate for your wellbeing and the bike.  It's the least you can do.  But seriously, the Katy Trail has a lot of little things that can get jammed up in your bike.  A daily inspection is worth the time.
• Stay hydrated.  Aren't sweating?  Not hot?  You still need water and electrolytes to fuel your system.  Maybe you will have to pee in the wilderness.  It's not so bad.  😊
• I support reading the signs at all the depot stops, but I'll summarize: settlers came to the river, trade developed, the railroad came, the floods came, the town moved, more floods came, the railroad died, the end.  It was a startling pattern.  
• Music is a blessed companion.  Pandora worked along the whole trail.  Bluegrass, punk jams, Brandi Carlile and a little Beyonce can go a long way.  No TV, internet (beyond dinner research) and radio was the greatest escape.  
• Don't be afraid to adventure alone.  You will find out how you are feeling about your own company.  I wasn't digging it, but I know why and I had time to process that.  I had several reminders from outside and unrelated sources that I am a badass.  I'm going to embrace that.  I'm doing a damn good job with life and adventures.  

Please don't be afraid to conquer something.  Career, family, friendships and material goods have all developed fairly organically for me.  Other parts of my life, not as much.  I needed to do this prove that I was capable of doing something grand, something I didn't think I could do.  For some people, this may be as simple as learning to ride a bike at 50, taking up painting on weekends or biking 260 miles across Missouri.  Find your challenge and hit it with all the force in your soul.  The freedom that will come from accomplishment is priceless.