Vietnam Part II: Phong Nha, Oxalis and Village Adventures

Due to some logistical issues, I was relieved to have arrived in the village.  In theory, it was all actually going to work out now!  Thankfully there was a man with my name on a sign waiting to take me to Oxalis (basecamp).  We drove in the uneasy darkness of early morning and were blessed with the sun rising as we got closer to the village.  The mountain was emblazoned with the name of the national park.  The best way to explain my day in the village is through photos.  The caves were an experience to remember, but a day in Phong Nha was just as intriguing and the relaxation I needed.

Entrance to the village.

Song Con River

Pancakes - Vietnam Style! (I also consumed bread with jam, bacon and water galore).

Village puppy who ended up being my best meal time companion.  

After breakfast, I borrowed a bicycle and decided I was going to go see it all.  I'm not sure how far I journeyed, but I went through residential areas, to the National Park and saw loads of locals.  Nearly every child came outside to wave with great enthusiasm and say, "Hello! What is your name?"  There were numerous peace signs presented as well.  I guess they feel like we need to know it's ok to be here.  I was passed by motorbikes with women heading to market, children heading to school and wary cows and water buffalo.  

Hammer and sickle flags alternated with Vietnam flags at every home.  

Mysterious tower.

I saw a sign for the Botanical Gardens - 8K.  Have bike, will travel.  Botanical Gardens are actually their way of saying the National Park.  I rode through a strangely manned checkpoint to get into the park and off I went.  

My Dad's favorite flower seems to grow wild all over Asia.  

Most convincing "Danger" sign I've seen in a while.

Water buffalo family on the move!  Vietnam bicycling is fraught with these moments.  Not sure whether to pass or wait.

After bicycling long enough to warrant lunch, I sat riverside and pondered the next adventure.  The sun was coming out, I was in desperate need of some vitamin D, and the kayaks were waiting for paddlers.  After getting some help shoving off the 100 Lb beast and being reminded that the paddle didn't float, I headed what I thought was upstream.  Turns out there had been loads of rain in the jungle and the flow from the forest was making the current strange (and rising).  No worries!

You can see the clarity in the water.

There were no less than 4-5 boats within sight at all times collecting seaweed.  I still can't figure out what it is for, but it is labor intensive for sure. 

Tourist river boat.  The tourists, mostly Asian, seemed as excited about seeing a kayaker as anything else.  I waved and smiled a lot.

Vietnam kayaking hazards.

These handsome guys were all friendly until they started launching mud pies at me.  They had a considerable range as well!  

The entrance to Phong Nha cave.  It was a little depressing to watch boats, motors cycling, go into the caves.  There is no way this is ecologically sound at all.

Yay, kayaking!

My favorite thing at Oxalis is that they would ask if you wanted to sit inside or outside.  It was really all outside.  

Panoramic view from the Oxalis property. 

I enjoyed the people in the village, the very affordable and hospitable accommodations and the pace.  I capped off my kayaking with an epic nap in front of a fan in my room.  It was divine to finally have a flat, wide surface to crash on.  The staff asked how it was with a knowing smile.  I hadn't announced my nap, but my marked disappearance was enough to tell the tale.  

The next day it was off to greet adventure and step into the jungle!